Home
Hamsters
Rats
Mice
Snakes
Turtles
Lizards
The Pet Blog

Enter your E-mail Address

Enter your First Name (optional)

Then

Don't worry -- your e-mail address is totally secure.
I promise to use it only to send you Pet Care Tips.

[?] Subscribe To This Site

XML RSS
Add to Google
Add to My Yahoo!
Add to My MSN
Subscribe with Bloglines

Milk Snake Information

milksnake

The milk snake can make a great addition to your reptile collection no matter your experience level. These snakes will typically grow to lengths of 2 to 3 feet as adults, and can be purchased in an array of colored ring patterns. Just like any pet, owning a snake is a real responsibility! These snakes commonly live anywhere from 15-20 years in captivity when properly cared for.

Housing

If you own a corn or king snake, then these housing requirements will be pretty much identical. First and foremost, you will want to buy a secure enclosure. Depending on the length of your milk snake, a 10 or 20 gallon tank with a secure wire mesh sliding lid will be excellent. As a general rule for most snake species, the length of the enclosure should be at least 2/3rds the total length of the snake.

Things You Will Need:

  • Enclosure with a secure mesh top lid.
  • Shallow water dish
  • Under the tank heating pad covering 1/3rd the enclosure
  • Multiple hiding places (recommended 3 or more for this snake)
  • Artificially vines or branches to climb on
  • Substrate for the cage (Aspen shavings / Coconut Fiber)
  • Humidity Gauge
  • Temperature Gauges for cool and warm ends of enclosure

    Enclosure Layout

    Like both king and corn snakes, the milk snake needs a temperature gradient in order to stay healthy and regulate its temperature. The only real difference in husbandry between these three different species is that milk snakes tend to be very secretive.

    This means they will require multiple hiding places in order to feel safe and at ease in their environment. Just make sure none of the structures for climbing, or hiding places can fall on and injure your snake.

    Milks are also very fond of burrowing, so a newspaper or astro turf substrate is not really ideal. I would recommend using aspen shavings or any other reptile friendly substrate that retains moisture and allows for burrowing.

    Sand, shredded paper, or any substrate with a strong odor like pine, is not acceptable. The sand can be swallowed and can cause digestive problems, while shredded paper is too dusty (if out of your paper shredder) and can cause respiratory problems. Pine's strong smell can make for some potential breathing problems as well.

    The water dish should be placed on the cool side of the enclosure. You might also decide to keep another water dish on the warm side of the enclosure to raise humidity; however, I must warn you that you risk the glass cracking and breaking if the water dish is overturned. If you have ever put cool water into a very warm glass on accident causing the glass to literally explode, then you will know what I'm getting at.

    The hiding places should be evenly distributed around the cage so that these shy snakes can slither around without feeling vulernable or exposed.

    milk snake

    Maintenance

    A milk snake will thrive with very little upkeep. All that is required is a feeding every 4-5 days for juveniles, or every 7-10 days for adults. The cage should be misted once both in the morning and evening to maintain humidity essential for healthy snake shedding.

    You can count on your snake to defecate around 2-3 days after feeding. It is advantageous to have a substrate that you can spot clean to save time. A full cleaning of the enclosure should take place monthly. Spraying the empty tank with 1 part bleach, and 10 parts water is very effective. Just make sure you thoroughly rinse the enclosure with water afterwards!

    Feeding

    The milk snake, because of its secretive and coy nature, can be a problem feeder. I cannot stress the importance of multiple hiding places for this snake to alleviate stress. A stressed out snake is not a good eater!

    I personally recommend feeding pre-killed frozen prey items that you can purchase online or at your local pet store. You can buy frozen mice in bulk, and thaw them out to room temperature. They are not only more convienient, but safer for your snake. Dead mice don't bite back, and they are killed as humanely as possible so you don't have to feel guity about killing your own mice.

    As a general rule of thumb, feed food items that are no larger than one and a half times the thickest part of your snakes body. If you think for a second that it might be too big, then it probably is!

    Conclusion

    These snakes can make great little pets in the sense that they are interesting reptiles to hold and admire. They aren't cuddly like a cat or dog, and they won't play fetch with you. It really takes a different kind of person to truely appreciate a snake as a pet.

    A few important things I forgot to mention...

    This particular snake likes to "musk" on people. Like we discussed earlier, milks are very shy snakes that are spooked easily. They can, and will basically defecate on you regularly until you are no longer percieved as a threat. That is the only real drawback!

    Cannibalism is normal for milks, so never keep more than one per an enclosure, and be sure to leave your snake alone in its new home for a few days before you start handling him. The sooner he starts feeling safe and secure, the better!

    milk snake

    Return from Milk Snake to the Pet Snake Care Page

    Return from Milk Snake to the Pet Care Home Page
    Google


    footer for milk snake page